Grooming capital in today’s luxury industry

Much of what we see of the luxury industry - be it on social media or in popular culture - is gilded in a high gloss veneer of glamour. The seemingly impenetrable fortresses of high fashion or five-star hotels belie the work ethic, innovative spirit and niche competencies demanded of professionals that run the industry.

As a human capital specialist working in luxury for over 15 years, SMU Master of Human Capital and Leadership (MHCL) graduate Don Mak was part of the pioneering team at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong since its opening, and is now the Senior Human Resources Manager (South Asia) in the Regional Functions of luxury conglomerate Richemont.

“There are a lot of myths about this industry. One perception people might have about working in luxury retail is that it’s a very fancy job like Emily in Paris on Netflix,” he quips. “Having to attend parties, meeting celebrities and having the liberty to travel – all this is partially true, but also depends on the job function.”

Unlike fictitious portrayals in the media, a role within the rarefied industry does not always necessarily entail rubbing shoulders with celebrities, drinking champagne, and generous wardrobe budgets. Behind the scenes are individuals obsessed with balancing the triple bottom lines of profit, sustainability and social responsibility, alongside championing emerging trends and creativity. Hence when hiring, Don looks beyond individuals who could tell the difference between a tourbillon and automatic movement, or a Birkin from a Baguette. Even more surprisingly, having prior experience in luxury is not a prerequisite to enter the sector.

“These are people who are really passionate about luxury; they appreciate craftsmanship and innovation,” he explains.

“When it comes to human capital, we're really keen to build diversity and drive innovation. So, from an HR or leadership point of view, hirers don’t just look at talent coming from the luxury sector. We are quite open-minded. I’ve seen people coming from tech firms of start-ups, hospitality, and even FMCG (fast-moving consumer goods).”

Instead, he is on a constant lookout for potential candidates who are curious, have a hunger to learn, and are passionate about growth. Such a pragmatic approach to talent management reflects Don’s own journey into the world of luxury in 2005: It was a move largely unplanned and, as he puts it, “coincidental”. Rather than having harboured a childhood ambition to call a palatial property his new workplace, Don’s account of entering the upper echelons of hospitality was relatively modest.

“Four Seasons was having a mass recruitment drive at a time when I was casually looking for job openings,” he tells us. “It was around the time I was about to graduate.”

He spotted an ad for the HR position, went for the interview and got the job. The rest was history and he stayed with Four Seasons for about seven years before moving on to Richemont — which owns brands like Cartier, Montblanc and Piaget.

The importance of upskilling in the wake of a pandemic

In 2019, Don embarked on the MHCL programme, part of which took place during the Circuit Breaker period.

“We (the students) were very lucky because our last semester ended in February. So technically, we finished all the classes, but still had a final project due in April. Credits to the professor who guided us for this last leg, with checking in frequently with us, and supporting us throughout,” he recalled. “It was not easy, but it was definitely an unforgettable experience.”

Don liked that the MHCL programme combined both business and Human Capital elements. Both aspects of the programme enabled him to speak the business language, which he finds crucial for HR practitioners.

“SMU’s reputation speaks for itself. I had heard a lot of good things about SMU through SMU students and alumni whom I found to be generally impressive: confident yet humble, curious, passionate,” said Don. “That meant a lot to me (in choosing SMU) and I was confident the SMU would offer me the best learning experience.”

Despite the uncertainty brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic, Don does not regret his decision to take up a master’s programme during that time.

“I always say that nothing is permanent,” he reflected. “As the pandemic has shown, a community could shut down in a month. You could lose your job, and everything changes.”

To this end, Don believes that being agile and highly adaptable is key. In fact, it was one of the major lessons he learned during his time at SMU. While one may not have specific skill sets for a particular sector, the general knowledge and work experience gleaned from being on the job, say the airline industry (which might have initially promised a high remuneration but came to a standstill during the pandemic) can easily be transferred elsewhere.

“At the end of the day, there are no specific skills that can prepare you for an uncertain future,” he explains. “What’s more important is to have a mindset to continuously learn. That was my key takeaway from the programme.”

Embarking on the MHCL also challenged some of the preconceptions Don used to have about his role in managing human capital.

He notes: “In the past, I’ve always had a perception that Human Resource managers are not exactly ‘numbers’ people, compared to those in finance.”

But he quickly realised that his professors expected the same degree of data and numerical acuity from him, as of any finance or business student. While it came as a struggle initially for Don, who readily admits to not being “good with numbers”, he eventually learned to appreciate the importance of using figures and concrete data to tell his story in a compelling way - particularly in commercial pitches and proposals to stakeholders.

“I’ve always believed that being in the business of managing people is something intangible, and not easily explained with numbers,” he admits. “It didn’t occur to me before that by measuring engagement levels and looking at patterns, trying to quantify them; that is how I work with numbers and sell my ideas to an audience of top executives or senior management.”

Don shares that in terms of leadership and exposure, he is beginning to see some opportunities on the horizon. He attributes his growing confidence to the leadership aspect of the master’s course, which has been eye-opening.

“It is not only for people who are in HR, so be open-minded,” he says, addressing those who may be considering taking up the course in the future or keen to try something new.

“I definitely see the MCHL as adding value in terms of leadership management, which is really helpful for every single professional, regardless of their interest in climbing the corporate ladder or otherwise.”

*Editor’s Note: Don has since joined Aman, a luxury hotel group as their Corporate Director of HR – Asia in Jul 2021.